Girls in Pearls by Claudia Lanfranconi

The Story of a Passion in Paintings and Photographs, Book Review

Apr 1, 2009

"Girls in Pearls" examines the history, cultivation, symbolism and wearing of pearls through paintings, prints, drawings and photographs.

Merrell Publishers are renowned for a broad range of high quality illustrated books on art, architecture, photography, graphic design, cars, motorcycles, popular science, women's studies, fashion and gardening. Girls in Pearls, by Claudia Lanfranconi, is one of Merrell's art book publications.

About the Author

Claudia Lanfranconi has worked as a freelance writer covering the fine art market for the magazine, Architectural Digest, and also for a number of German newspapers. She studied art history in Rome, Bonn and Florence.

The simple cover of this publication gives no clues as to the gems (no pun intended) concealed within. Claudia Lanfranconi investigates our fascination with both natural and cultured pearls through drawings, paintings, photographs and prints by great artists and photographers, many of whom remain unknown. The wearers are mythological heroines, society ladies, Hollywood divas, unknown beauties, princesses, queens and great leaders.

Lanfranconi demonstrates how pearls have signified power, wealth and social standing throughout history. According to the Latin writer Pliny (ca.24-79 CE) pearls were "the richest of all merchandise". Cleopatra, who was fond of the gems, dissolved a pearl earring in a glass of vinegar and drank it to show the Roman commander Mark Anthony just how wealthy she was.

The author explains the symbolism of pearls. Prized for their purity and beauty the pearl's watery origins are associated with fertility and birth or rebirth. Artists have used pearls to indicate virginity, spiritual wisdom and perfection, or the opposite extremes of female vanity, greed and extravagance.

The book commences with an introduction in which the author discusses the history of pearls, their cultivation, their symbolism, their supposed healing powers, and their use as jewellery to accentuate the beauty and femininity of the wearer.

This is followed by five chapters containing painted and photographic portraits. Each is accompanied by a commentary explaining the context in which the image was created. The reader is given a glimpse into the life of the artist and his or her model. The chapters are as follows:

This chapter explores anonymous beauties and society ladies such as Lucas Cranach the Elder's (1472-1553) Sibylla of Cleves as the Bride of Prince Johann Friedrich I of Sachsen-Weimar (1526) and Rembrandt's (1606-1669) Artemisia (1634).

This section, an investigation of history's courtesans and seductresses, includes John William Waterhouse's (1849-1917) Ophelia (1894) and Salome (1906), by Franz von Stuck (1863-1928).

This chapter, which demonstrates how pearls featured in the costumes of powerful women includes Dorothy Wilding's (1893-1976) photographic portrait of Queen Elizabeth, Queen of King George VI (1937).

Although pearls have now become an everyday accessory they still epitomize aesthetic perfection. This chapter features the portraits of wearers including American actress Louise Brooks, the girl on the front cover, by an unknown photographer. Other icons include Coco Chanel (ca. 1934) by Man Ray (1890-1976), and Jacqueline Kennedy (1951) by an unknown photographer.

Girls in Pearls is a fascinating read, and will appeal to anyone interested in jewellery or art. It contains good colour reproductions and fascinating commentaries written in language accessible to all readers. Details of other Merrell publications can be obtained from Merrell Publishers Ltd.

Girls in Pearls, (ISBN-10: 1-858943507/ISBN-13: 978-1858943503, 152 pages), Merrell Publishers Ltd., 2006, price £14.95.

The copyright of the article Girls in Pearls by Claudia Lanfranconi in Visual Art Books is owned by Frances Spiegel. Permission to republish Girls in Pearls by Claudia Lanfranconi in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.